A fine western performance saddle, properly maintained, will outlast most horses and many riders. The certified used saddle market exists because of this longevity — a Bob's Custom Saddle from 2003 on a sound tree, with well-conditioned leather and intact stitching, is a better saddle than a cheaply made new one at twice the price. Knowing how to evaluate it is the difference between a great purchase and an expensive mistake.

This guide walks through the six-step evaluation process used by professional saddle dealers — the same process David Solum applies to every saddle that enters his certified used inventory. Work through these steps in order. Do not skip the tree evaluation to get to the price conversation.

Why Buy Used?

The economics of the certified used saddle market favor buyers who know what they are looking at. A new Bob Avila signature series saddle from Bob's Custom commands $8,000–$12,000 depending on the silver package. The same saddle, five years old with normal use and good maintenance, trades at $4,000–$6,500 — roughly half the new price while retaining the same tree quality, leather quality, and performance characteristics that made it worth buying new in the first place.

This discount reflects two realities: the cosmetic depreciation of a used luxury good (no one pays new price for a saddle that has been sweated in), and the market's general preference for new over used regardless of actual quality differential. Neither of these factors affects the saddle's performance. A well-maintained Donn Leson Reinmaker performs identically at $4,500 used and $9,000 new.

The certified used market also provides access to saddles that are no longer in production. Bob Buster retired from saddle-making, which means the new market for his saddles is closed. The only way to acquire a Bob's Custom Saddle is through the secondary market — and the best of them, particularly the full-silver Bob Avila signature series, are genuinely exceptional instruments that hold their value better than almost any other western performance saddle.

The Certified Difference

"Certified used" is not a regulated term in the saddle industry — any seller can use it. What makes David Solum's certification meaningful is 40 years of experience evaluating western performance saddles, personal inspection of every piece in the inventory, and honest representation of condition including defects. This is the standard you should hold any seller to.

Step 1: Evaluate the Tree

The tree evaluation comes first because it determines the entire value of the saddle. A cracked tree cannot be repaired to competition-grade structural integrity. A saddle with a broken tree is worth the cost of its silver and nothing else.

The twist test. Place the saddle on a solid, level surface — a saddle stand or a bale of hay. Grip the horn firmly with one hand and the cantle firmly with the other. Apply firm, sustained twisting pressure — not a sudden jerk, but steady torque — pushing the horn to the left while pushing the cantle to the right, then reversing. A sound tree will be completely rigid. Any flex, give, creak, or movement in the tree structure indicates damage. This is not a subtle test; a sound tree does not move.

The gullet inspection. Look through the gullet channel from the rear of the saddle. The channel should be uniform in width along its entire length. Narrowing, asymmetry, or visible cracking in the gullet arch indicates structural damage.

The seat inspection. Run your hand firmly across the underside of the seat leather. Feel for any soft spots, lumps, or areas where the seat leather does not have firm, uniform resistance beneath it. These can indicate areas where the tree has cracked or where the padding layers have compressed unevenly — sometimes masking tree damage.

The rigging plates. Check that the rigging plates (the metal D-rings and their attachments at the front of the saddle) are solidly attached and show no movement relative to the tree. Loose rigging plates indicate either broken tree attachment points or improper repairs.

If you cannot perform the twist test in person — if you are buying remotely from a dealer — ask for a video of the test being performed, and ask specifically whether the dealer has found any evidence of tree damage. A reputable seller will answer this question directly.

Step 2: Assess the Leather

Saddle leather quality varies enormously, and condition within a given quality tier varies even more. Good leather, well-maintained, improves with age — the fibers consolidate, the patina deepens, and the material becomes more supple and resistant to cracking. Neglected leather becomes brittle, prone to cracking, and ultimately structurally compromised.

Evaluate leather quality and condition separately. High-quality leather that has been neglected is a better purchase than low-quality leather in excellent condition, because the underlying material is superior even if the surface presentation is not.

Indicators of high-quality leather:

  • Tight, fine grain visible under good light
  • Consistent thickness throughout — high-quality leather is not thinned or stretched unevenly
  • Supple feel even without recent conditioning — good leather retains some natural oils even when dry
  • Clean tooling that holds sharp edges and precise detail — cheap leather cannot hold crisp tooling

Condition red flags:

  • Cracking along the fender crease — this is the highest-stress area on a western saddle, and the first place compromised leather fails
  • Silver-leather interface discoloration — silver hardware that has never been removed traps moisture and accelerates leather degradation beneath it
  • Dried, whitish areas — leather that has lost its oils and has not been conditioned will show a faded, chalky appearance
  • Previous repairs — look for stitching that does not match the original, patches, or areas where the leather has been glued rather than stitched

Minor surface scratches, scuffs, and the normal patina of use are not defects — they are the evidence that a saddle has done its job. Evaluate structural integrity, not cosmetic perfection.

Step 3: Check the Stitching

The stitching on a western performance saddle is both structural and decorative. Structural stitching — the seams that hold the skirts, jockeys, fenders, and rigging in place — must be intact. Decorative stitching on the seat jockey and cantle can show wear without affecting function, but broken structural stitching is a genuine repair need.

Run your finger along every major seam on the saddle. At the back of the cantle, along the skirt edges, around the rigging, and across the fender attachment points. Any broken or missing stitches in structural locations need repair before the saddle is put into hard use. This is a saddle-maker repair, not a DIY fix — western saddle stitching is done with specific thread, at specific tension, with specialized equipment.

Repair cost for structural restitching is typically $75–$200 depending on location and extent of the work. Factor this into your purchase price negotiation if stitching repairs are needed.

Step 4: Evaluate Silver Hardware

Silver hardware on western performance saddles ranges from minimal (a few conchos and corner plates) to full show packages (complete skirt overlays, cantle binding, horn cap, and dozens of decorative pieces). Silver adds significantly to both the new price and the resale value of a saddle.

Evaluate silver hardware on three dimensions:

Material. Sterling silver (.925 silver content) is the standard for fine saddle hardware and holds its value as both jewelry and as saddle hardware. German silver (an alloy of nickel, copper, and zinc with no actual silver content) is used on less expensive saddles and does not have the same value or visual character as sterling. Sterling silver will show a bright white cut on an undecorated surface; German silver has a slightly yellower, grayer tone and will not respond to silver polish the way sterling does.

Condition. Sterling silver tarnishes and can be polished to excellent condition regardless of age. Damage — dents, bent pieces, lost conchos — is more significant. Count the conchos and verify that none are missing or replaced with non-matching pieces. Check corner plates and cantle binding for secure attachment and undamaged surfaces.

Engraving quality. On fine show saddles, the silver engraving is itself a significant value component. Hand-engraved sterling from a skilled engraver is artwork. Check the depth, consistency, and clarity of the engraving. Stamped or machine-engraved silver is less valuable than hand-engraved, and the difference is visible in the sharpness and depth of the design.

Step 5: Confirm Horse Fit

No evaluation of a used saddle is complete until you have assessed it on your specific horse. Refer to the complete saddle fitting guide for the full protocol. At minimum, before committing to purchase:

  • Place the saddle on your horse without a pad and assess gullet clearance, wither clearance, and saddle balance
  • Check that the bars contact the horse's back evenly across their full length without bridging
  • Ride in the saddle at all gaits before finalizing the purchase — behavioral resistance at the trot or canter that was not present before may indicate a fit problem that was not visible in static evaluation

Reputable used saddle dealers should allow a trial period for in-person evaluation. If a seller refuses to allow the saddle to be placed on your horse before purchase, this is a significant red flag.

Step 6: Understand Pricing

Western performance saddle pricing in the used market reflects five variables: maker reputation, condition, silver content, current market demand, and the seller's business model. Understanding each helps you evaluate whether an asking price is fair.

Maker reputation is the dominant price driver. A Bob's Custom Saddle commands a substantial premium over an unknown maker at equivalent condition because the tree quality, leather quality, and engineering are demonstrably superior. The premium is real and justified.

Condition is the second variable, and the one most subject to subjective interpretation. A seller's "excellent" condition and a buyer's may differ. The evaluation protocol in this guide is the tool for closing that gap.

Silver content adds measurable value. A full sterling silver package on a Bob Avila signature series saddle represents several hundred dollars in raw silver value plus the craft value of engraving and setting. This is not negotiable — it is material content.

Market demand fluctuates. When the NRHA Futurity is approaching, demand for reining saddles increases. When a notable maker retires or passes away, demand for their work typically increases as collectors recognize the finite supply. The inverse is also true — less fashionable makers or styles trade at lower multiples of their intrinsic value.

Seller business model matters significantly. Private sellers typically price below dealer prices because they have lower overhead but also less accountability. Professional dealers like David Solum price at market rates for verified, honestly represented inventory — you pay a modest premium for the inspection and certification that eliminates the risk of a broken tree or misrepresented condition.

What Makes a Saddle Hold Its Value?

Some western performance saddles depreciate rapidly; others hold value for decades. The predictors of retained value are consistent:

  • Tree quality — saddles built on genuinely high-quality trees by reputable makers retain structural integrity indefinitely with normal care, which supports long-term value
  • Leather quality — premium leather from Hermann Oak or comparable tanneries ages well and conditions to better presentation over time; budget leather degrades
  • Maker reputation — Bob's Custom, Donn Leson, Kyle Tack, Superior, Martin Saddlery all have established secondary market demand that supports pricing
  • Silver content — sterling silver has intrinsic value that floors the minimum price of a full-silver saddle
  • Maintenance history — a saddle that has been regularly cleaned and conditioned will always sell for more than a neglected one of identical origin

Saddles to approach with caution in the used market: unknown makers, import saddles sold under American brand names, saddles with replaced or non-original silver, and any saddle where the seller is unable to provide coherent provenance.

Buying From David Solum

David Solum has been buying, evaluating, and selling western performance saddles for more than 40 years. His inventory at CertifiedUsedSaddles.com and ReiningSaddles.com represents what that experience looks like in practice: 40 saddles that have passed his personal evaluation, honestly described with known defects stated rather than concealed, priced at genuine market value.

Every saddle David sells has been:

  • Physically inspected for tree integrity using the twist test and visual inspection
  • Assessed for leather condition, stitching integrity, and silver quality
  • Priced based on current market conditions for comparable pieces
  • Described honestly, including defects — you will not discover surprises after purchase

Use the Saddle Matchmaker to identify candidates that match your discipline, seat size, and budget. Then contact David directly to ask specific questions about any saddle in the inventory before purchasing.

(417) 793-1403  ·  davidsolumsales@gmail.com